Shanghai’s largest trade show plans expansion beyond Fashion Week – WWD

LONDON – Ontimeshow, the biggest fashion show during Shanghai Fashion Week, has ambitions beyond its biannual show business.

An instant step in its plan is to expand its functions as a fashion storefront and showroom. This season, he took over Tank Shanghai, a contemporary art space converted from oil tanks and a short walk from its main site on the West Bund, to meet growing demand from local designers.

Yeli Gu, founder of Ontimeshow, said they had just signed another five-year strategic partnership with West Bund to help the region strengthen its positioning as the city’s burgeoning art and design district. . In return, Ontimeshow regularly extends its presence to the desired location.

A short drive from downtown Shanghai, the West Bund is home to some of the city’s most prestigious art museums, such as the West Bund Museum, which has a five-year partnership with the Center Pompidou in Paris, as well as the Yuz Museum and the Long Museum, which have done exhibitions and fashion shows with Gucci and Dior, respectively.

Ontimeshow Lounge

This season, West Bund is also offering the majestic dome-shaped Dream Center exhibition space for designers, with the Ontimeshow RoomRoom showroom showcasing their spring 2022 collections.

The lineup includes the first Chinese Fashion Fringe winner Haizhen Wang, the first Chinese Woolmark Prize winner Qiuhao, Susan Fang and Xiao li, LVMH Prize finalists, and Angel Chen, who rose to prominence internationally with the reality show. from Netflix’s ‘Next in Fashion’.

Fang, who moved to Shanghai from London due to the pandemic, said Ontimeshow had provided support throughout the process. She’s built a money tree with purple crystals as leaves in her exhibit space at RoomRoom, and she’s ready for her show on Sunday.

“This is our first season working with RoomRoom and they have been a great support to both the show and our showroom, whether it is a very experienced sales assistant or ‘a nice space to organize ourselves. Even though we need enough time to build the place, which is a 3000 square meter theater, they really supported us as much as they could, ”she added.

Susan Fang's showroom in the Ontimeshow RoomRoom during Shanghai Fashion Week

Susan Fang’s showroom in the Ontimeshow RoomRoom during Shanghai Fashion Week.

Other brands to watch this season at Ontimeshow include Annakiki, By Fang, Deepmoss, Evening, Judyhua, Masha Ma, Renli Su, Roderic Wong, Sweetpotato Chiu, Wan Yi Fang, and Yingpei Studio.

Will Zhang, founder of Chongqing-based fashion boutique SND, said Ontimeshow has become a place for him to discover new brands, especially during the pandemic, when it makes more sense to buy local than to buy local. buy in Paris or Milan.

Joyce Wang, owner of the Chengdu concept store, said of Ontimeshow, “Its display every season is quite artistic and interesting. It shows the beauty of fashion in a diverse way so that people don’t feel here just to do business which also provides me with a lot of inspiration and creative ideas to run my store.

Ontimeshow now generates an average of over 3 billion renminbi, or $ 465 million, in orders per season. Last season, 217 brands were showcased with Ontimeshow, and some 24,600 people visited the show. Fashion brand 13DE Marzo received more than 90 million renminbi, or $ 14 million, in orders that season.

Exterior of the Ontimeshow lounge

Exterior of the Ontimeshow lounge

It has also expanded into the pre-fall and resort seasons to cater for this booming market. Ontimeshow organized its first summer edition at the end of June. More than 2,350 buyers visited the curated showcase of 32 brands. Half of the brands sold resort collections.

In addition to catering to the professional audience, Ontimeshow has teamed up this season with Douyin, the Chinese version of TikTok, to expand online. All shows will be broadcast live on the platform.

The two also collaborated on a talent search project alongside the Chinese edition of Nylon magazine, fashion boutique On / Off and cashmere supplier Sanddriver. The finalists are Acradetoken, Cheng Cheng, Donsee10, Nan Knits, Nildet, Outdoger, The Utterance, Artchi, Monsecret and Mandarin Zan Club.

It has also formed a strategic partnership with the Chinese social commerce platform Xiaohongshu on the “Red 100” project. Brands will be able to sell direct to consumers on Xiaohongshu starting today, at the start of the show.

They are also hosting a fashion fair during Fashion Week, where industry experts will chat with some 24 designers from the show and offer the platform audience a glimpse of their new season collections. At the same time, Xiaohongshu will share data on target audiences with designers and help them reach a more targeted audience.

Exterior of Yangqingli

The exterior of Yanqing Li.

But what Ontimeshow is really betting on for growth is its Yuanmu investment vehicle and long-term partnership with Bailian Group, Shanghai’s largest commercial property owner, on the fashion incubation project. Yanqing Li, a 67,000 square foot warehouse conversion. overlooking the Suzhou River and the city’s Bulgari Hotel. The Bailian group acquired a 10% stake in Ontimeshow at the end of 2019.

A dozen designers – like Helen Lee, OOAK, Roderic Wong, and Haizhen Wang – have set up studios in Yanqingli. There are also communication agencies, fashion education providers and exhibition spaces, forming a mini ecosystem of the fashion industry that benefits each other.

Ontimeshow also launched the Out of Stock 0909 retail concept. As the name suggests, it aims to help designer and partner brands clear off-season inventory.

Since entering the market eight years ago under the encouragement of Shanghai Fashion Week Vice Secretary Lv Xiaolei, Gu said that during her journey in the trade show business, she has realized that Ontimeshow could play a much bigger role in the Chinese fashion industry.

“With trade shows, you see where the market is heading. I quickly realized that in order to grow we need to connect the dots along the value chain and help our designers grow as a business. Many of them have never run a business or even worked in a professional environment before launching their brands. What we can do is make sure they get the right support, no matter what stage the brand is at.

Qiuhao Spring Collection 2022, presented as part of the Ontimeshow fashion display line

Qiuhao Spring Collection 2022, presented as part of the Ontimeshow fashion display line

“With the support of Bailian and the West Bund, we are able to reduce operating costs for designers throughout the year. And with RoomRoom and our investment arm Yuanmu, we are able to get to the root of the problem within companies and free designers from day-to-day operations so they can focus on creating great designs, ” she said, adding that Haizhen Wang is an example of how incubation unfolds.

Since receiving the investment from Ontimeshow, the brand’s annual revenue has jumped 600% in two years. Gu also revealed that Yuanmu will unveil a new round of fashion brand investments at the end of this year.

Looking ahead, Gu said, “Our ultimate goal is to become an open and inclusive designer brand incubation and management platform. We hope that as we grow stronger season after season, our designers can take an easier path to success and one day become a brand with global influence.


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